Hanoi Travel Diary 2024-03:A Day at St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Hanoi Desserts, Pool Time, Chả Cá, Tào Phớ, and a Relaxing Massage

June 12, 2024

Hanoi’s Last Morning

On our final day in Hanoi, we walked from our hotel, classychotel (see on map), to St. Joseph’s Cathedral (see on map).

The cathedral was built in 1886. The interior wasn’t as large as I imagined, but the atmosphere was calm and beautiful.

Stopping by Starbucks

Near the cathedral, we visited a Starbucks (see on map). They were selling rainbow cake, so it might have been part of a Pride-related campaign.

Cooling Down with Hoa quả dầm

Hanoi was hot again today, with trees looking full and vibrant. Because of the heat, we headed to Hoa Béo (see on map) for Hanoi’s popular dessert, Hoa quả dầm.

Their menu had photos, so ordering was easy. It’s a dessert where crushed ice is mixed into a bowl of fruit.

The coconut-flavored ice cream was light and delicious, the mango pudding was firm and tasty, and it came with plenty of jackfruit.

The total was 70,000 VND.

Afternoon by the Pool

My friend went out for a massage, so I returned to the hotel. The rooftop pool felt open and refreshing.

June in Hanoi is extremely hot, and it was hard to walk around during the day, so relaxing by the pool felt perfect.

Dinner: Returning to Chả Cá

For our last dinner in Vietnam, we discussed what to eat and agreed that it had to be Chả Cá.

We returned to Chả Cá Thăng Long, the place we visited two nights ago.

The staff cooked everything right in front of us, with plenty of dill and green onions. Absolutely delicious.

The sauce was lightly seasoned with a bit of acidity, and the white fish was cooked with turmeric and tasted great.

Even the fried spring rolls that came with the set were excellent.

Dinner for two was 423,000 VND.

Trying Tào Phớ

We then found a tofu dessert shop, but we couldn’t read the posted menu at all.

By pointing at what another customer was eating and gesturing, we managed to order. The staff showed us both the take-out cup and the dine-in dish, and we chose the cup.

I showed them my wallet, and the staff pulled out a 20,000 VND bill from the register to indicate the price.

When the dessert was handed over, the staff kindly used gestures to explain, “Pour the black one (tapioca) onto the white one (the tofu).”

I gave them a thumbs-up and said “OK,” and they smiled and gave me a thumbs-up in return.

It was a fun body-language-only transaction.

Ending the Night at a Lakeside Café

At night, we had tea at a café by Hoàn Kiếm Lake. As I sipped what might be my last Vietnamese coffee of the trip, the café suddenly had a blackout.

It came back about five minutes later.

We returned to the hotel to finish packing, and then my friend said, “I want another massage!”

So this time, I joined him.

Evening Massage

There are many massage shops in Hanoi, but I avoid the ones where women shout “Hello massage!” outside—I have a vague suspicion that they might offer questionable services.

We chose a place that felt calm and welcoming: HO KINH DOANH TAM SPA.

The staff were polite and didn’t aggressively approach people, which made it feel comfortable.

A 90-minute oil massage was 550,000 VND per person.

Since we paid with a credit card, an extra fee was added, so the total for two was 1,130,000 VND.

I was paired with a very skilled therapist, and the massage was wonderful.

After the session, we gave a 100,000 VND cash tip.

A Hot and Humid Hanoi Night

When we stepped outside, the air was thick with humidity and heat.

Even before 11 p.m., the weather app showed 32°C with 80% humidity.

Hanoi in June is intensely steamy—but that’s also part of the city’s charm.

St. Joseph’s Cathedral (see on map)
Starbucks (see on map)
Hoa Béo (see on map) for Hanoi’s popular dessert, Hoa quả dầm
classychotel (see on map)
Chả Cá Thăng Long
a tofu dessert shop
a café by Hoàn Kiếm Lake

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