Hanoi Travel Diary 2024-02:A Day Exploring the Old Quarter: Thang Long Imperial Citadel, Dong Xuan Market, Water Puppet Theater, Chả Cá, and Egg Coffee

June 11, 2024

Morning at the Hotel

We stayed at ClassyCHotel (see on map), all paid for by my friend, and honestly, it was perfect.

The breakfast room felt elegant. There were many kinds of bread, beautifully arranged salads, tempting fried spring rolls, Western dishes, fresh fruit—everything looked great.

Visiting the Thang Long Imperial Citadel

We called a Grab taxi and headed to the Thang Long Imperial Citadel (see on map), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The entrance fee was 70,000 VND per person, and credit cards were not accepted.

Right after entering the grounds, we reached the first building, which turned out to be the main highlight.

If I knew more about Vietnamese history, I’m sure I would have found more things to appreciate.

Inside the building, there were wooden temple instruments and offerings, but nothing that looked like a main deity.

The Buddha’s hand citrus fruit offered there had a very unusual shape.

Because of the humidity, the walls were covered in what looked like mold, moss, or algae.

Some of the decorative patterns—possibly influenced by Chinese design—were also completely mossy.

But honestly, it made sense. The heat and humidity were overwhelming, and my T-shirt stayed stuck to my back the entire time.

There was a small exhibition room on-site, with displays mainly of roof tiles and ceramics. Jewelry and ornaments were limited.

We also found jackfruit trees growing in the area. I saw them as street trees as well, and they looked dangerous—if one fell, it could definitely split someone’s head.

Exploring Dong Xuan Market

We moved on to Dong Xuan Market (see on map).

Many shops were selling hats, and in the fabric section, one of the staff members was literally lying down on the merchandise taking a nap.

Unlike the market in Nha Trang, I didn’t see any suspicious goods that looked like diverted brand-name products from Nike or Adidas. Maybe Hanoi, being the capital, has stricter controls.

Instead, there were plenty of obvious knockoffs—like a JIL SANDER–style shirt labeled “JIL UNDER.”

Break at LAIKA Café by Hoan Kiem Lake

After leaving the market, we walked through the Old Quarter and stopped at LAIKA Café by Hoan Kiem Lake to rest.

Because Hanoi was so unbearably hot, our new rule for choosing cafés became: “Does the air conditioning work well?”

From the terrace, we could see the lake.

Inside the café, families were eating sunflower seeds and tossing the shells onto the floor, someone was watching videos on full volume, everyone spoke loudly, and kids were running around bumping into other customers. It was chaotic in its own way.

What is considered “manners” in Japan simply didn’t apply here. And kids in Hanoi—whether on the street, indoors, or probably at home—seem to run around with endless energy.

Lunch and Water Puppet Theater

We stopped by a bánh mì shop we happened to find. Two sandwiches cost 70,000 VND.

Since we had booked tickets online the day before (5,018 yen for two), we picked up the tickets at a nearby travel agency and headed to the water puppet theater.

We rented an audio guide for 50,000 VND, but the Japanese translation was awkward and hard to understand. Some parts were too literal to make sense, which was funny in its own way.

Even without the audio guide, just watching the puppets’ comical movements and listening to the traditional instruments was entertaining.

Visiting the Temple at Hoan Kiem Lake

After the show, we visited a temple on Hoan Kiem Lake (see on map), which was also featured in the puppet show.

The entrance fee was 50,000 VND per person. There was a display of a preserved giant turtle—perhaps a softshell turtle.

Shopping at Vincom Center

Because it was raining and we couldn’t get a Grab at all, we took a street taxi to Vincom Center (see on map), which cost 100,000 VND.

It was a very nice department store, and the VinMart inside accepted credit cards, so we could buy souvenirs without worrying about our remaining cash.

We bought coffee, lotus tea, dried mango, cashews, lotus seeds, pistachios, and mung bean cakes.

Dinner: Chả Cá Again

When deciding what to eat for dinner, we couldn’t stop thinking about how good yesterday’s chả cá was, so we decided to have it again.

We went to a place near Hoan Kiem Lake (see on map), but in the end, the chả cá from yesterday’s restaurant was better.

It wasn’t bad, but today’s fish had a slight smell, and they didn’t add as much dill. The dipping sauce also leaned heavily toward fish sauce, while yesterday’s had a lighter, more flavorful broth.

Ending the Day with Egg Coffee

Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped by a café (see on map) for egg coffee.

The interior felt old and a little shabby, but it had a nostalgic charm that added to the experience.

ClassyCHotel (see on map)
the Thang Long Imperial Citadel (see on map)
The Buddha’s hand citrus fruit
completely mossy
jackfruit trees
Dong Xuan Market (see on map)
LAIKA Café
We stopped by a bánh mì shop
Water Puppet Theater
we stopped by a café (see on map) for egg coffee

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