June 5, 2024
The next morning was the big event: our Halong Bay cruise. But from the moment we woke up, thunder roared and rain pounded down. We called the taxi we’d arranged and headed to the pier (see on map), where we boarded a cruise ship run by Sea Octopus.
Inside, the ship felt cozy. Outside, the rain cloaked the karst hills like a moody ink painting — eerie, misty, but strangely beautiful.
Then we transferred to a smaller boat and landed on a little island. Despite the rain, a few daring souls even braved the water for a swim. My friend refused to trek, saying, “My shoes will get dirty,” and settled on a bench on the beach to read. But I figured, “We came all this way — I should try everything,” so I set off up toward the hilltop.
That decision backfired a little: the mosquitoes were ferocious. Within minutes, I’d been bitten four times on my legs and twice on my arms. My limbs puffed up bright red, and the itching was brutal.
The trek itself was steep — endless stairs, wet slopes. We were wearing the raincoats the cruise provided (they were basically garbage bags), so we were sweating like we’d climbed in sauna suits. It was exhausting and muggy.
When I finally reached the top, the panoramic view was… rainy. But I shrugged, telling myself that rainy days have their own charm. Still, climbing those steep stairs was no joke.
Back on the boat, lunch was served buffet-style. They had roast beef, chicken, pork — all kinds of protein. I stuffed myself. There was also a colorful array of sushi, which was a fun surprise.
Then we sailed to an island cave full of stalactites. The cavern was massive, and even in the dim light it felt awe-inspiring. Near the exit was a little souvenir stall — but the staff looked defeated, totally drained. It was humid, dark, and the work environment must be brutal. I felt for them.
We exited the cave, and though it was still raining, the view was hauntingly beautiful.
Back on board, afternoon tea was laid out: roll cake, Vietnamese coffee, and tea.
Despite the downpour, I really enjoyed myself. The cruise cost us 1,440,000 VND per person.
Once we got back to shore, we grabbed a Grab and returned to our room. We threw our rain-soaked clothes in the wash, trying to get rid of the damp and salt from the sea.
A Hearty Local Lunch: Bun Cha
After freshening up, we went to a bun cha restaurant (see on map). Bun cha is a northern Vietnamese dish where you dip noodles into a sweet-sour broth. The menu was totally in Vietnamese — Google Translate Lens didn’t help much — but the staff kindly showed us photos of the dishes on their phone, so we could just point and order.
I asked what the staff like the most, and they strongly recommended something that looked like a tempura of worms (yes, worms). My stomach twisted at the picture, so I declined. I want to try everything when I travel, but worm tempura was a bridge too far. They kept pushing it, but I stayed firm.
We ended up with the bun cha itself — the noodles were thin like somen, and the dipping broth was tangy and sweet. I realized I still prefer pho, though. We also ordered a combo of fried spring rolls and grilled meat. The spring rolls were incredible — definitely a highlight.
To drink, we had a mixed juice of orange and carrot. The total for lunch was 190,000 VND.
Sweet Comfort: Egg Coffee at TIN Café
Next, we went to TIN Café (see on map). Note: map pins in this town aren’t very accurate — the café turned out to be in a different building than the one we saw on Google Maps.
I ordered an egg coffee, and oh man, it was good. Rich espresso, bitter but mellow, topped with a custard-cream layer and crushed coconut. The way the sweetness and bitterness balanced—they nailed it.
My friend ordered a “smoke something” drink. When it arrived, there was actual smoke drifting in a glass dome — very Instagram-worthy. Once the smoke cleared, he sipped. He said it tasted good, though.
Together we paid 120,000 VND. The café’s interior was full of fake flowers in bloom — very dreamy.
Little WinMart Stop Before Bed
On our way back, we popped into WinMart (see on map) to buy instant noodles for breakfast the next morning. They were 29,000 VND, paid with a credit card.
There was a pile of unfamiliar fruit next to the register, but when a staff member told me it was sold by the kilogram, I passed. No way I was lugging that home.
